Perth

 

On experiencing Perth’s wonderful weather, beautiful beaches and easy-going character, some travellers wonder, just where is everyone? While the lack of big-city bustle has something to do with Perth being the world’s most remote capital city, you won’t find the locals complaining about the lifestyle!

While Perth used to be characterised as rather dull, a resources boom has seen Perth blossom like WA’s wildflowers in spring. Today it’s a sophisticated, cosmopolitan city with myriad bars, restaurants and cultural activities all vying for attention. But the best bit is that when you want to chill out, Perth’s pristine parkland and beaches allow the population to spread out and enjoy what’s on offer. After all, we are talking abouta city that has its own dedicated dog beach…

A FEW THINGS TO CHECK OUT

Aquarium of Western Australia

For all things fishy, head to the Aquarium of Western Australia. Here you can wander through a 98m underwater tunnel as gargantuan turtles, stingrays, fish and sharks stealthily glide over the top of you. A series of mini marine-worlds show off the state’s underwater treasures: intriguing sea dragons, moon jellies (which billow, iridescent, through a giant cylinder), venomous fish and sea snakes. Seals play in the underwater-viewing area. The daring can even snorkel or dive with the sharks in the giant aquarium with the in-house divemaster. Book in advance (snorkel/dive including gear $145/165; 1pm and 3pm).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Little Creatures

Little Creatures is classic Freo: harbour views, fantastic brews (made on the premises) and excellent food. Try the classic chilli tomato mussels ($22) and wood-fired pizzas – the blue cheese, pear and rocket ($18) is sensational – while sampling the boutique beer menu. No bookings.

Brass Monkey

This massive pub, built in 1897, boasts several different areas and vibes. Take your pick: sit up on a stool at the bar, lean back in the relaxed beer garden or hunker down on a sofa by the fire. The food’s good, too.

Brass Monkey

Perth Zoo

Perth Zoo has a number of interesting collections, including a nocturnal house and an ‘Australian Bushwalk’. Take the ferry ($3.20 return) across the river from Barrack St jetty to South Perth jetty, where the zoo is within walking distance. Otherwise catch buses to the zoo’s entrance: 30/31 from Wellington St bus station or the Esplanade Busport or 730/731 along Adelaide Tce.

Western Australian Museum

The Western Australian Museum includes an excellent ‘land and people’ display that examines both ancient history and the more recent past; a gallery of dinosaur casts; a good collection of meteorites; and galleries dedicated to mammals, butterflies and birds.

Scitech

Scitech is an option, especially if it’s raining. It has over 160 hands-on, large-scale science and technology exhibits.

TRAVEL

BUS:

Greyhound Australia (13 14 99; www.greyhound.com.au; East Perth terminal) has daily services from the East Perth terminal to Darwin via Broome.

Transwa (1300 662 205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au) operates services from the bus terminal at East Perth train station to many destinations around the state.

South West Coach Lines (9324 2333) focuses on the southwestern corner of WA, doing trips from the Esplanade Busport to most towns in the region, including Bunbury, Busselton and Margaret River.

Integrity Coach Lines (1800 226 339, 9226 1339; www.integritycoachlines.com.au) runs services between Perth and Port Hedland via Meekathara and Newman.

TRAIN:

The intrastate rail network, run by Transwa (1300 662 205; www.transwa.wa.gov.au), is limited to the Perth–Kalgoorlie–Boulder Prospector ($72, once daily), departing from East Perth terminal. Some trains leave at 7.15am. The Perth–Mandurah railway should be operating by mid-2007. See www.newmetrorail.wa.gov.au for the latest.

There is only one interstate rail link: the famous Indian Pacific transcontinental train journey, run by Great Southern Railway , which leaves from East Perth station. One-way fares between Sydney and Perth are about $590 (seat only), $422 (seat only, backpacker rate) or $1320 (sleeper cabin). Between Adelaide and Perth, fares are $355 (seat only), $253 (seat only, backpacker) or $1005 (sleeper cabin). There are connections to the Ghan (to Alice Springs and Darwin) and the Overland (toMelbourne) trains.

You can buy train tickets at the interstate and country booking office at the Perth train station. The office is off Wellington St.

AIR:

Qantas Airways (13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au; 55 William St) and Virgin Blue (13 67 89; www.virginblue.com.au) fly between Perth and other Australian state capitals.Jetstar (www.jetstar.com) runs cheapies from Avalon, Melbourne.

Skywest (1300 660 088; www.skywest.com.au) flies between Perth and regional destinations such as Esperance and Broome. Qantas also flies to Broome and Kalgoorlie.